Sometimes you put a dish on the menu to try it out, and it takes over. You find that out when you take it off the menu and there’s a chorus of disappointed voices. That dish has become a classic.
I wanted comfort food, but I knew I needed something to cut the richness. Collards (spring greens) give you something to chew on and a different kind of richness. Then I took another left turn and slipped in some cauliflower for another level of texture. Everybody agrees. Mac and Greens is yummy.
The recipe includes our recipe for Spiced Butter. We use this butter as a flavour enhancer – you find it in a lot of recipes in the book. It has a hint of funk, like the funk of fermented foods, the new wave of flavour to follow umami. There are a lot of versions of spiced butter in Ethiopia. My version is true to that made by my wife Maya’s tribe, the Gurage.
Extracted from Red Rooster Harlem The Cookbook, by Marcus Samuelsson, published by Pavilion Books, photography by Bobby Fisher